Just days after Prada drew criticism for its questionable take on India’s traditional Kolhapuri chappals, Dior has landed in hot water over something strikingly similar—this time, for overlooking credit to India’s rich embroidery legacy.
At the heart of the controversy is a gleaming gold-and-ivory houndstooth coat from Dior’s latest collection, the first to be designed entirely by Jonathan Anderson since he took over as the brand’s creative head for both men’s and women’s lines. The show, held in Paris on June 27, drew heavy buzz—not just for the clothes but also for the glittering guest list, which included Rihanna, Robert Pattinson, and Daniel Craig.
But it wasn’t a celebrity that sparked the conversation online. It was fashion analyst and creator Hanan Besnovic, who posted a detailed video zooming in on the intricate metal-thread embroidery on that standout coat. Besnovic pointed out that the embroidery style is unmistakably “mukaish”—a delicate and historic hand-embroidery technique from Lucknow, India, known for weaving fine metallic strands into fabric.
“This isn’t just any coat. It’s part of a major debut collection, and the technique used is incredibly meticulous. That shimmer? It’s the result of hours of mukaish work—an art that’s been around for centuries in India,” he explains.
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What’s ruffled feathers is that nowhere in the official communication did Dior mention the technique’s Indian roots or acknowledge the artisans behind it. One Instagram user summed up the sentiment best: “Indian craftsmen deserve the same recognition as European ateliers like Lesage. Say what you will about Maria Grazia, but at least she highlighted the Indian hands behind her designs.”
