Mohammad Naushad, a retired individual from Bengaluru, had dreams of exploring the world once he completed his tenure in the steel industry. About a year ago, he arrived in Samarkand as a tourist. His daily quest for morning masala tea and paratha, however, led him to establish roots in the city and open the only Indian restaurant in Uzbekistan’s second-largest city. Named “The Indian Kitchen,” the restaurant became a welcome haven for Indian students studying medicine in the region, offering a taste of home that they had been missing. The locals, too, embraced the diverse menu, featuring everything from luscious dosas to aromatic chicken biryani.
“I had no plans to work post-retirement and had no experience of working at a restaurant let alone running one. When I came here as a tourist, I headed out to have my usual breakfast of masala tea and paratha.
“I have travelled to so many countries and have always found some or the other place where Indian food is available. I was surprised to find out that there is not a single eatery or restaurant which serves Indian meals,” shared 61-year-old Naushad.
“A week more and the vibrant culture and simplicity of people here, prompted me to give it a shot and now Samarkand is my permanent home,” he added.
As per Naushad, the eatery welcomes approximately 350-400 visitors daily, and it also handles catering orders for weddings and events, where the inclusion of Indian cuisine is particularly well-received.
His day kicks off with a visit to the local “bazaar” accompanied by his staff, where they purchase fresh groceries. He insists on having everything prepared from scratch at the restaurant.
“There are over 3,000 Indian students in Samarkand and they tell me often that they used to miss Indian meals. The shahi paneer and naan and the rotis used to be a rare sight here. I expected the Indians to love the restaurant but the response I have received from Uzbeks is phenomenal,” he said.
The culinary mastermind behind the delectable dishes served at the restaurant is Ashok Kalidasa, a chef originally from Madras. Previously residing in Tashkent, Uzbekistan, he has now established his home in Samarkand.
“We enquire from each customer about the kind of spices they like us to use, whether they want it less spicy or tangy because Uzbek food is very different. The effort to customise the popular Indian dishes to their taste is what attracts the local crowd here. Indian students come here because they get their home food and the meals are not expensive,” he said.
Kalidasa mentions that the restaurant’s standout dishes are the “masala dosa” and “chicken biryani,” distinctly different from the Uzbek staple “Pilaf.”
Asked about her favourite pick at the restaurant, Zarina, an Uzbek woman, said “I love masala chai”.
Presently, the Indian Kitchen provides meals within the restaurant, but Naushad has intentions for expansion.
“We are also thinking of starting a tiffin service for Indian students. Also, we get a lot of tourists. So I am contemplating opening similar setups in Bukhara and Khiva which are popular tourist destinations in Uzbekistan but do not have any Indian restaurants,” he said.
As per the Uzbekistan Embassy in New Delhi, the Indian diaspora in Uzbekistan exceeds 5,000 individuals. In the pre-Covid year 2019, Uzbekistan welcomed more than 28,000 Indian tourists. However, the current year has seen a notable increase, surpassing 30,000 visitors so far.