Cheese is a fundamental element in many culinary traditions worldwide, offering endless versatility for both savory and sweet dishes. In a recent survey conducted by Taste Atlas, a leading global food ranking platform, the top cheese desserts from around the world were highlighted, with India’s cherished Ras Malai securing the second position.
Poland’s Sernik, a delectable cheesecake crafted with eggs, cheese, and sugar, took the lead at number one. It was closely followed by Ras Malai from West Bengal. Securing third place was Spanakopita from Greece, a flaky phyllo pastry dessert, followed by an assortment of cheesecakes including New York style, Japanese, and Basque. The final four spots were claimed by Hungarian Racoczi Turos, Greek Melopita, German Kasekuchen, and Czech Misa Rezy.
In India, desserts transcend mere post-dinner indulgences; they hold a cherished place within the cuisine. The tradition of incorporating cottage cheese into desserts is widespread across the nation. Ras Malai, derived from ‘ras’ meaning juice and ‘malai’ denoting cream, exemplifies this tradition. This dessert comprises flat cakes made from cottage cheese, soaked in sweetened milk or clotted cream infused with the aromatic essence of cardamom.
The origins of this dessert trace back to the arrival of the Portuguese in India, who introduced cheese-making techniques in regions like Goa and West Bengal. This period marked the rise of cottage cheese, known as chenna, which became a prominent ingredient in many local desserts. Today, a noticeable distinction exists between sweets made with chenna and those without. Portuguese expeditions persisted until Goa was captured by the governor of Portuguese India in 1510. During the Mughal era from 1526 onward, Goa and Bengal developed distinct culinary communities, with each region adopting varying approaches to incorporating new methods and ingredients. Bengal integrated Portuguese cooking techniques while retaining indigenous ingredients, while Goa underwent a different trajectory. The dessert we now recognize as Ras Malai didn’t emerge until the nineteenth century, remaining absent even from the first Bengali cookbook published in 1831.
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The concept for this dessert was first conceived in the 1860s by K.C. Das Grandsons in Kolkata. According to food historian KT Achaya, “in 1868, the 22-year-old Nobin Chandra Das of Sutanati created the spongy rasogolla cooked in sugar syrup, and some fifty years later, his son Krishna Chandra Das invented the rasmalai.” Despite various claims regarding the origin of rasogolla, it was K.C. Das who continued his father’s legacy and popularized a sustainable recipe upon establishing his new confectionery shop in 1930. Thus, Ras Malai, a dessert less sweet than others in South Asian cuisine, was finally brought to life.
Today, chenna-based Bengali desserts such as Roshogolla, Sandesh, and Kacha Golla are beloved worldwide. As Rasmalai spread to other regions, it quickly gained popularity and became a favorite for festive gifting, especially around Diwali, when people share in this delicious, cheese-based dessert.
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